As the sun sets on November 2nd in the quiet borough of San Andrés Mixquic, the local cemetery begins to glow. Hundreds of candles flicker to life. Marigold petals form glowing pathways. The air is thick with the scent of copal incense and tamales. But this is no ordinary cemetery visit — this is a sleepover with the dead.

Deep within the forests of Tochigi Prefecture lies a place where myth and mystery echo through sacred halls. At first glance, Nikkō Tōshō-gū looks like any other stunning Shinto-Buddhist shrine—gilded, intricate, layered with centuries of craftsmanship. But step inside the Yakushi-dō Hall, look up, and clap your hands just once. The dragon will respond.