Forget everything you think you know about carnivals. Bright feathers, samba drums, glittery floats? You won’t find them here. Instead, picture this: sweaty bodies painted in black grease, primal howls, wooden masks, jungle drums, and dancing that feels more like an ancient exorcism than a parade. Welcome to Carnaval de Tenosique — the weirdest carnival in Mexico, maybe even the world.

In the shadowy early hours of the morning, while most of the world is still wrapped in dreams, there exists a place in East Java where fire glows an electric blue, sulfur dances in the air, and the earth itself seems to breathe. Welcome to Kawah Ijen, one of the few places on this planet where you can literally chase fire in the dark—and not get burned.