Forget what you think you know about death. In Mexico, it’s not something to fear — it’s something to celebrate. Every year from October 31st to November 2nd, the country bursts into color, scent, sound, and memory for what might be the most magical holiday on the planet: Día de los Muertos, or The Day of the Dead.

In the shadowy early hours of the morning, while most of the world is still wrapped in dreams, there exists a place in East Java where fire glows an electric blue, sulfur dances in the air, and the earth itself seems to breathe. Welcome to Kawah Ijen, one of the few places on this planet where you can literally chase fire in the dark—and not get burned.