In the shadowy early hours of the morning, while most of the world is still wrapped in dreams, there exists a place in East Java where fire glows an electric blue, sulfur dances in the air, and the earth itself seems to breathe. Welcome to Kawah Ijen, one of the few places on this planet where you can literally chase fire in the dark—and not get burned.

When people hear “Dijon,” most immediately think of that golden, spicy condiment that graces sandwiches around the world. And yes, this city in the heart of France is indeed the birthplace of Dijon mustard—but Dijon is far more than just a spread.